Choluteca, the Mecca of the South

A produce market lines the street most used by buses leaving for various cities

So Mecca might be an exageration, but Choluteca, Hondura´s largest Southern city, is definitely a central point for commerce and travel. With over 120,000 residents, the city is a sprawling patchwork of markets, commercial centers, and resdiential neighborhoods, connected by a series of lurching or screaming school buses (depending on the age of the bus). While Choluteca is almost always both hot and dirty, for this gringa, it represents and connection to modern convenience that is only a 40 minute bus ride away. Here I am able to stock up on non-Honduran food, like lentils, lactose free milk, and recently eggplant (!), visit the post office to mail letters, buy clothing, hop a bus to another city or country, or visit one of the the many open air markets selling products that usually dont make it to Orocuina, all for less money. Another reason to head into Choluteca is because the Asociation´s primary offices are located there. I usually find myself in Choluteca 2 times a week, although it is not always something I look forward to.

Photo of one of the primary comercial streets in Choluteca.

While my goal in Choluteca is usually to get in and out in the least possible amount of time, today I decided to take my time and explore what Choluteca has to offer. I learned a lot today: including how to eat an entire cococunt by using the shell to scrape out the meat, and when talking to Choluteca men... invent a boyfriend. All in all, it was a great day, and I was happy to slow down and take the time to enjoy this city I so often try to escape. Enjoy the pics!

Having past a coconut stand in a hurried state many times, I decided to sit down and have a drink. After drinking the water, the guys at the coconut stand broke open the coconut with their machete and cut a small piece of the shell for me to use as a spoon/knife to scrape out the fruit. So good! Here more coconuts at my feet await thirsty customers that will pull up to this roadside stand on the main drag.

A park across the street from where I usually wait for the bus to head to AMDV office

Central Park, downtown. Venders line the edges of the park selling everything from enchiladas to french fries

A residential neighborhood just off of the central park

Presents and Packages

Alejandrita getting ready to cut her cake

Today I experienced my first real birthday party here in Orocuina, and I have to say, I am exhausted! It was the birthday party of one of my neighbors and favorite Punta dance instructors, Alejandrita... she turned 9! To celebrate, her family invited friends, relatives, and neighbors to dance and eat cake. The birthday celebrations began for me at 7:30am when I received a call from Alejandrita´s mom asking me to pick up the pans I would be using to bake Tres Leches and Carrot cakes for the party. (Thank you Mom for teaching us how to bake!!) I spent the morning baking with the birthday girl and then helping the family get ready to receive guests at 3pm.

Hanging out for a photo opp with Pepe, the life size piñata
Unfortunately, the day did not end well for Pepe...

As is customary at informal events, the guests began to arrive around 4pm, by 4:30 the piñata was broken, by 5pmcake and dinner were served, and by 6pm we were left with shreds of piñata and blaring reggeaton music. While here it is customary to wait to open presents until all the guests to leave, I was able to stay long enought to see Alejandrita open her new ¨doctor´s kit.¨ Just about every time I come over, we play doctor and having been a big ¨doctor¨ player myself... I put together a small canvas bag with gauze, gloves, bandaids, containers and swabs. The present went over great and I have a feeling I will be taken care of well during the rest of my time here :) At the party I also got a chance to have my first Honduran ¨Cuba Libre,¨ (rum, coke, a bunch of ice, and lime - yum!) and I learned more dance moves from Ishmael, my 70 year old neighbor and Alejandrita´s grandfather- words will not do this man´s dancing ability justice! (He taught me some moves that he said were ¨groseras¨... I have never seen a person that age get down like that- he put grinding highschoolers to shame.)After a full day of cooking, dancing, and celebrating I am not sure who is more tired in this picture!

In addition to making and giving presents, I have recently been the incredibly appreciative recipient of a PACKAGE!!! The other day I was called downstairs to see Victor the mail man waiting with his notebook for me to sign. I was so excited to receive my first package since returning and I was even more excited when I saw what was inside! Thanks so much Kathy for a great package! I love the new additions to my place, and the trail mix is a true treat! Thank you for thinking of me!

Have Scabies, Will Travel...

Yes, it´s true, the little red welts on my arms, neck and stomach, mixed with an ¨all-over itch¨ confirm that I have scabies. Unfortunately, this realization came at an inopportune time as I am traveling in Tegucigalpa to renew my visa, staying with friends and reusing itchy clothing :P Because today turned out to be a national holiday and the immigration office was closed, I headed to the mall while waiting for friends to finish school. The moment of truth came while trying on clothes in an upscale mall in Teguc... I saw the welts. Before this point I thought just maybe it was mosquito bites, but no! I took off the clothes that I would not buy and prayed no one else did either (SORRY!) and headed straight to the nearest pharmacy.

Mall Multiplaza in Tegucigalpa

I know what you are thinking: Scabies, really?? ewww...

While not so common in the U.S., scabies, is incredibly common here in Honduras (so much so that is commonly referred to as ¨the itch¨). It is more or less a mite that apparently has amazing jumping clearance to hop from person to person in record speed. The good news is, that once you know what you´re dealing with... it is fairly easy to get rid of. In my case, I bought a $2 bottle of ¨scabicide¨ lotion and a bar of antibacterial soap. Mom and dad, you can find more info here: www.medicinenet.com/scabies/article.htm

Scabacide lotion and antibacterial soap, my weapons in the war against mites

Luckily, the friends that I am staying with were kind to lend me some mite free clothing; however, they are all half my size! :) I couldn´t help but laugh at the situation unfolding, Blanca pulling clothes out of her dresser and holding them up and me saying, too small. She found some scrubs (is in med school) and a stretchy t-shirt that I will wear to the immigration office tomorrow(!) and on the bus back to Orocuina. When I get home, all of my clothes and sheets will be boiled and washed and I´ll pull my mattress and hammack into the sun for a day. For now, I´m a little chilly but much less itchy in my new clothes... this has definitely been my most interesting trip to Tegucigalpa thus far!

Blanca and I, in Blanca´s clothing

Exercising in Orocuina: Getting Creative

Over the past three months, I have made a conscious effort to make exercise a regular part of my life here, both to stay healthy and keep off the tortilla padding that is so easily gained. :) Exercising in Orocuina has required some creativity as poverty induced violence is high and walking/running alone is not advisable outside of the 10 blocks that make up the downtown. In attempts to make use of what´s available, I have taken to climbing stairs ... 2 sets of stairs to be exact, many, many times. At first, Benicia made fun of me running up and down my 2 story apartment stairs, but now she cheers me on and tells everyone how in shape I am :) I have also created small handweights for myself using gatorade bottles filled with water... am working up to sand! In addition to stair climbing, I take advantage of my outdoor ¨veranda¨ for sunrise and sunset yoga sessions, and use a video program called P90X, which kicks my behind.

When none of this sounds exciting... there is always hip shaking to the Daddy Yankee or Chicas Roland that grace my speakers these days.Staying in shape without a gym has been a great challenge in self determination and creativity!

Working to Reduce Malnutrition and Mail Campaign Updates

A group of volunteer community health workers committed to reducing malnutrition in Orocuina

One of the primary projects I am involved in here in Orocuina is a nutrition program that works with 15 volunteers monitoring height and weight to prevent and reduce malnourishment and improve health. It was only recently that I found out that our work is really part of a much larger, national initiative, initially supported by World Health Organization, USAID, Save the Children, and other large international health organizations. After some investigation, I learned that Atencion Integral al Niño Comunitario is actually a well known strategy for malnutrition reduction that, due to its ¨cost effectiveness¨ in Honduras, has been translated to various other countries in Central America and Africa. Unfortunately, I am learning, cost effectiveness does not always translate to good health nor sustainability.

In the case of Orocuina, our county´s program has roughly 45 volunteers to cover 17,000 residents! These volunteers represent the county´s health center´s primary preventive approach to maternal and child health, receive no pay, and very little support. As a result, the volunteers end up coordinating with up to 6 or 7 different Nonprofits that work on and off in the area to receive basic resources like scales, health education materials, and medicines. (This means lots of extra work for the volunteers who have to fill out reports for all the organizations that support them.) Today 2 of the 4 primary organizations involved in Orocuina came together with a group of volunteers to discuss how to coordinate efforts. For me, this moment was super exciting... as I know how hard it is for most NGOs to set their egos aside and truly work together. AMDV, the organization with whom I work, is one of the most humble, hardworking groups of women I have ever met. I am also incredibly impressed with a Spanish organization, Medicos del Mundo, that has been working with the same intention of uniting forces for the wellbeing of the community. My hope for the rest of the time here is to work with the women to unite the nonprofit efforts with the Mistries of Health center to create one, fortified and cohesive set of community health workers to serve the community. Will keep you posted!

In other news, today I received my first piece of mail since I have gotten back!!! I can´t tell you how excited I was to see Victor, the mail man, pull up on his bike and pull a letter out of his backpack! Thanks Jenny!!! I have also been hard at work writing lots more post cards and letters to be sent out tomorrow- check your mailboxes in the next 3 weeks! :)

Rosquillas!

A canasta filled with rosquillas (round and ring shaped), quesadillas (sweet bread) and galletas de dulce

While I have constantly struggled with my ¨genetic sweet tooth,¨ I was never much of a chips or crackers person... until I found rosquillas. Sold in the majority of corner stores, on the bus, and in just about every major market, this homemade Honduran ¨Cheezit¨ has taken this gringa by storm. Made with homemade cheese, cornflour, and lots of butter, rosquillas, are round crackers, so cruchy that they are almost hard. For this reason, they are best dunked in a cup of coffee or added to soup.

Sulema, the door to door sales woman who provides me with my fix

These filling little snacks cost $.010 a piece and last for days... if I could stopping eating them. Luckily for me, Sulema, a woman who lives the next town over, comes by DAILY to sell me my biggest vice since chocolate chips :) While rosquillas are most likely the reason I have gained an extra 5 to 10 pounds since coming to Honduras, they are well worth the extra stairs and sit ups.

Becoming a Godmother

Today I had the honor of becoming the godmother of Brayan Jahir Osorto Salinas, the son of one of my friends and co-workers, Nelly and the grandson of Benicia!

Brayan Jahir and his ¨madrina¨

The service was intimate and simple. Lasting 10 minutes, it was held here in the center with a small group of us: Brayan and his parents, Brayan´s godfather (who is also his uncle), myself, and Brayan´s grandfather (who is also a representative of the Catholic church and lead the proceedings). We lit a kitchen candle to bring in the light of Christ and used water from the pila for the blessing, but somehow, these simplicities of everyday life made the ceremony all the more real and truly meaningful. I know that this will not be the last time in my life that I am in Orocuina, and becoming the godmother of my host family´s child is an honor that only strengthens my roots here. After the service and having his picture taken, Brayan Jahir fell fast asleep in the hammack and the rest of us went about our day... a little more conscious of our role in this sleeping babe´s life :)

Brayan Jahir with his god parents: Mario and I, his parents, and grandparents

Pizza, Parades, and Mail Campaign Updates

While the skies are still overcast in Southern Honduras, this Friday the rains let up long enough for Choluteca´s 165th anniversary parade. Lasting over 5 hours (!!), the parade ran through the whole of downtown and was televised on national cable! I was in town to meet up with Southern Peace Corps members for pizza, and was lucky enough to catch this marathon celebration. Entries ranged from pick up truck to flat bed floats, to soldiers in the Honduran infantry, to full scale marching bands. Probably my favorite groups were the marching bands. I have to admit that I haven´t ever seen marching bands with as much rythm as yesterday´s highschoolers. Moving in and out of formation, every band member´s hips were moving as if they were a back up dancer for Shakira. Even the band director/marshall was working it while he blew his whistle. Another great thing about Honduran bands are their instruments. To get that great Latin beat, bands carry all sorts of different instruments beyond our standard tubas, trumpets, and drums, the most interesting being a turtle shell.
I don´t think I have ever seen so many Cholutecans out and about at the same time. Even in crowds of over 100,000, I happened to run into some Canadian friends. (Us ¨Gringos¨can spot each other a mile away :) ) After the parade, we headed to Pizza Hut for a yummy lunch splurge. My food was so good that I forgot to take pictures inside the building, but here´s an idea of the US¨esque¨ building... the inside is just as nice if not nicer than Pizza Huts in the states! Maybe for this reason the prices are the same as the states as well(!) Pizza Hut, Wendy´s and other US fast food restaurants that have made their way down South bring US prices which make them ¨higher end¨ restaurants that are mostly frequented by the well off... imagine a Big Mac costing like $15 in the states and you´re in Honduras.
After lunch I made what will hopefully be the first of many trips to the post office to send off letters! Anna, the mail attendant, greeted us and hand glued $1.50 stamps to each of my letters. She was amazed when I said I had been here for a year and never come in... ¨yes it is ,¨I told her, ¨I don´t get much mail... but that is about to change!¨ I also stocked up on postcards, to be mailed out on my next trip to Choluteca.

I got home, exhausted and ready to climb into bed, only to be invited over to the neighbors for soup and music videos. Before long my neighbors/little sisters were teaching me how to dance Punta, a Carribean booty shaking dance that could also be turned into a cardio workout DVD. While I have a LOT more practicing to do, I had a blast... I guess the band members weren´t the only ones shakin´ it yesterday :)