Mayan Nawales and Deciphering 2012

After an amazing week with Dad and Jane, I made my way back to Lake Atitlan. The plan was to spend a good 4 or 5 days in San Marcos de la Laguna, a small town known for its spiritual vibe. With thoughts of yoga, massage, and meditation dancing in my head I set off!

The dock of San Marcos la Laguna, in Lake Atitlan

It is easy to see how many fall in love with the romantic dirt foot trails leading into tiny cafes and massage parlors along the water`s edge; however, an immediately noticeable divide between the San Marcos natives and new residents/tourists left me feeling uncomfortable and out of place. (On one hand, I am a tourist, but on the other hand, the thing I enjoy most about traveling is conversing with and learning about local culture. The last thing I want to do is spend time in or support development that does not appear to have been done with the blessing of local residents.) I will say that for those purely interested in a beautiful retreat-San Marcos delivers- it was beautiful and is an easy place to lose yourself for a day or year. There are also many foreign residents that are attempting to connect with natives. I can not say if this sentiment is reciprocated.

An adaption of the traditional Maya sauna at La Paz, in San Marcos la Laguna (A mixture of herbs in steaming water made for an amazing cleanse!)

The shores of San Pedro la Laguna, Lake Atitlan

After taking advantage of a couple of great yoga and energy sessions, I took the advice of a fellow traveler and made my way to San Pedro la Laguna, another, larger, town along the lake. I spent the next two days in San Pedro and San Juan, studying Mayan culture and religion in a local cultural center and even had the chance to meet and work with a Maya healer. It was an amazing experience!! I learned from natives that San Pedro (ironically known by tourists as the ¨party town¨) is one of Lago Atitlan´s longest established towns and for this reason is one of the most committed to maintaining and reviving the Maya culture.

View of the lake from a new cultural center opened in San Pedro

Those who know me know that while I am not very religious, I am an incredibly spiritual person and strongly believe in the universal energy which connects each and every one of us. Learning about the Maya religion was an opportunity to view this energy in yet another light from those who have developed systems of knowing (time, astronomy, even medicine) which continue to play large roles in modern society.

From the very little I was able to glean in 2 days time, I learned that the Maya believe in a calendar of 20 days, which repeats 13 times in a year. Depending on the day and year in which you are born, you are assigned a Nawal, or spiritual guide. This Nawal also supports the growth of individuals by shedding light on the strengths and weaknesses of those born under its sign. (My guess is that modern day astrology is based off Mayan cosmology... that´s right, your daily horoscope is deeper than you thought!! ;) ) I was personally amazed by the accuracy of my Nawal`s predictions that I will be drawn to work in health, psychology, and politics and should devote myself to curing others. (Good to know that I am on the right path!) I am also prone to suffering because of my stubborness... so $%·&ing true!!

A mountain range affectionately known as the ¨Mayan Face¨as seen from San Juan

I also had a chance to talk to various individuals about what the upcoming 2012, or end of the Maya calendar, means to them. The universal response I received was that 2012 does not infact indicate the end of the world (sorry Hollywood), but rather the end of an era or way of thinking. One individual likened it to the entry of a new period- similar to the Dark Ages or the Age of Enlightenment, they said that 2012 marks the entry into a new period of growth and understanding of ourselves and how we interact with this world. Many of those whom I talked to believe that we have already begun to prepare for this change as we move away from the use of fossil fuels and seek alternative forms of energy; however, they say that the changes will transcend ¨being green,¨ to affect all systems, from the way we organize as communities to the way we rule as nations. (One healer forecasted that Capitalism and globalization will no longer reign as the driving forces.) I think the most important thing I took away from our conversations is that our generation has been and will continue to live in a period of transition and that we have the opportunity to both create and heal. None of these changes will occur overnight, but rather will occur over our life span and will be looked back upon as a turning point.... as so many other major landmarks.

The towns of San Juan and San Pedro were amazing sources of history, culture and art that I would highly recommend visiting! San Juan in particular was an adorably small town filled with artisan cooperatives which sold fabrics, bags, and scarves, canvas paintings, and natural medicine. San Pedro is also known for its fantastic chocolates- and while my efforts to find and tour the factory were futile, my backpack was filled for the trip back!!

All in all, my trip back to the lake was absolutely nothing like what I thought it would be and yet, at the same time, so much more! Whether you are looking for cultural connections, natural healing, art work, or just some good chocolate- Lago Atitlan is sure to hold something for every traveler!

For a great starting point to Maya culture:

http://www.authenticmaya.com/maya_culture.htm

A Week en Familia in Guatemala

Whew! What a wirlwind three weeks! After finding out that my internet no longer works in Orocuina (need to get a new plan), I decided to take advantage of one of my last afternoons in Guatemala to hunker down at the computer and catch up!

While this trip has been amazing from start to end, by far, my favorite part was spent ¨en familia,¨ with Dad and Jane. After a fantastic few days in the capital, I met up with these two Wisconsin escapees and we headed straight to Antigua. Check out pics of my adventures in Guatemala city:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=116429006352388993425&target=ALBUM&id=5598834796401562257&authkey=Gv1sRgCK3AzIOEmuTG4AE&feat=email

While they had been up at since 2am, Dad and Jane were not about to miss anything, and as soon as we set our things down in the hostel, we were off to see the sites. We visited Saint Pedro´s Cathedral (cannonized in 2006, he has become the patron saint of the crippled and has cured thousands of their need for crutches.) Ruins from the original cathedral after the earthquake remained and as we toured, we could hear the hymns of the brothers who to this day live in and serve the church.

Jane inside of the ruins of St. Pedro´s Church

The next day was spent taking in the festivities of Palm Sunday. The processions were amazing. Thousands of men, boys, and babies dressed in royal purple robes with white sashes and filed down the streets to be followed by processions of the crucifiction, carried by members of the church. We learned that individuals paid by the block to carry either Mary, if they were females, or Jesus, if they were males. It was explained to us that the processions are actually weighted so that individuals to experience a small part of the burden that Jesus took on when carrying his cross.

Before the processions came through

Blessing the carpets

Another, equally amazing part of the processions were the carpets. Made hours before the procession would pass over, families take great pride in lining the streets in front of their homes with elaborate carpets of pine needles, flowers, sawdust, and in one case, cheetos :) The carpets became more and more intricate as the week went on with the final carpets taking over 4 hours to create! As the processions past, the carpets were blessed with incessence before being passed over by those carrying Mary and Joseph. Just as quickly as they were created the carpets were swept away immediately after the procession... nothing lasts forever :)

Our group after the climb!

In the middle of Holy week, we decided to steal away and climb Volcano Acatenango, Guatemala´s second highest peak. We were challenged by the 9 hour hike up, but were in great company with others from Canada, the UK, Guatemala, and Finland. Our hike up took us through farmland, cloud forest, alpine forest, and then above the tree line for the final ascent. We were met at the top with freezing temps and high wind. After assembling our tents, our group climbed to the outside of the crater to watch the sunset and Fuego, a nearby volcano, explode. On top of all of this, we watched a lightening storm roll past... while drinking wine... what a show!

For more volcano pictures, check out:https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=116429006352388993425&target=ALBUM&id=5598549963288250209&authkey=Gv1sRgCNKJmauOmLiltwE&feat=email

The next morning, it was back down the volcano and on to Lake Atitlan where we stayed in two different villages along the lake. On the lake we relaxed and explored the surrounding communities. Dad and I found a great little hostel/coffee roaster and spent the afternoon hatching plans to open our own place in Central America... a long term dream for sure...

From the lake it was back to Antigua for another day of processions and goodbyes as Dad and Jane headed back to Guatemala City and Wisconsin. It was a fantastic week, thank you both!

Falling in Love with Guatemala

What an amazing week!
I am not sure where to start, other than to say that I have officially fallen in love with Guatemala. It's nature, food, culture, and people have awed, astounded, and claimed a piece of my heart. (I can't believe I get to stay another 2 weeks!!)

The trip got off to a great start in Guatemala City where a couple friends and I spent the day exploring and eating our way through the city center. This was a great introduction to the amazing array of sweet and savory delights awaiting. Having the luck of meeting some great Guatemaltecos on the bus ride in, we explored Guatemalan nightlife, talked politics and enjoyed the "perks" of being in a big city. I was really pleasantly surprised by Guatemala City's great mix of development and culture. The majority of tourist guides will tell you that there is not much to see in "Guate," and that crime and violence make it a city best bypassed all together... I tend to disagree. With a little cuidado and a taxi, this city has a lot to offer!!

The next day I headed to the airport to pick up my dad and Jane and we headed straight to Antigua to begin what turned into a whirlwind week of religious processions, volcano climbing, relaxing on the lake, and exploring! I look forward to writing more about all of our experiences, but at the moment, the sun is shining and my shuttle bus is just about to pull up to take me to the lake for 4 days of yoga, smoothies, (diving??), and traditional healing. Then it is off to Tikal! Will reconnect soon!

Abrazos! Amanda

And Away She Goes!

It`s official... the backpack has come out of storage, and in 48 hours I will be on a bus, headed towards Guatemala! In attempts to reconnect with my backpacker roots, I am spending the next 3+ weeks meandering my way through Guatemala and into Mexico, connecting with family, friends, and hopefully other travelers in the process!

I`m excited to embark on this tiny adventure to experience new cultures, be in nature, (see family!!) and recharge! While I will be armed with my camera and sketchbook, I`ve decided to leave the computer at home. Depending on the number of internet cafes that cross my path, I may end up catching up with you all in mid May!

Until we meet again: Suerte, amor, y abrazos! Luck, love, and hugs!

Missing Package Found!

While I can`t say that work has gotten much better... I have definitely had my comical interludes. :)

Yesterday, I got word from Benicia that there was a package waiting for me with Victorino, Orocuina`s mail carrier. A friend and I headed to Victorino`s house to find not one but TWO pieces of mail, an Easter card and letter from Grandma (thanks Gram!), and a package from a good friend and co-worker in Wisconsin. I have to admit, I have been waiting with much anticipation for this package since JANUARY and was sure that it had been confiscated and was being enjoyed by a Honduran mail carrier... boy was I wrong! It turns out that my amazing package of specialty soaps has had quite the journey, being sent first to Barbados (!!) before finding its way to Honduras.

After laughing and thanking God for the comical start to the weekend, I tried to imagine all the hands this package has been in and all the opportunities for it not to reach me. While I could be frustrated with the amount of time it took, I have to say that I am pretty impressed (and entertained) that it actually made it to me. Oh... and grateful! :)

I am slightly obsessed with soaps... (I gave away 3 grocery bags of bath products when moving to Central America) and am SOOO excited to use my new gift and as well as share with friends! Thanks David and Gail!!

I look forward to spending the rest of my day in the hammack: (finishing inventories and..) writing letters and postcards while listening to Bachata and Reggeaton! -Abrazos

Heating Things Up!

Before I start, I should appologize for not writing much lately! Between craziness at work and trips to Teguc, I have been coming home to collapse in the hammack. (Last night I ¨rested my eyes¨ around 6:30pm and woke up at 9:30pm, in the hammack, with all the lights on... awesome!)

Participative analysis of our microlending project

Lately, I have been experiencing the challenges of working in a small non profit: recent staff cuts and tough decisions have left the organization I work with stretched thin and overwhelmed. All of this paired with stresses of daily life here in Honduras (getting up at 4:30 to make tortillas, inhaling a kilo of dust on the bus) has created strained inner office dynamics and a ¨charge¨ that has made work more stressful and less enjoyable. Ironically, things are heating up at work just as Honduras an abnormally high heat wave. (Recent news articles discuss the effect of the above normal heat on behavior and how Hondurans have become more aggressive... hmmm.... time to hide the machetes!!) :P

Benicia and I, goofing around during a business workshop

All of this being said, I am continually amazed at the women´s ability to laugh. Regardless of how rough our day was, someone can always crack a joke, and imediately the mood lightens. I am slowly learning to leave work at work- and perhaps out of necessity- becoming more social!

When I havent crashed in the hammack, these last few weeks have found me:

• Singing with the nuns across the street
• Playing Uno
• Watching Disney movies in Spanish
• Going to Soccer games
• Making Lots of pizza!

Taking in my first official campo soccer game- 95 degrees, but my Honduran bro`s team won!

Being a volunteer is challenging in that you have very little direct power. In many ways this is exhausting (!) because you need to work twice as hard to get things done WITH others... at the same time, I am learning that this slooooooow approach to development is crucial to sustainability, especially when you know you won`t be around forever. While the women joke about forcing me to marry and nationalize, I am beginning to realize that 8 months will go fast, and I need to make every day count! This experience is also preparing me well for future leadership roles and I look forward to putting my many lessons learned into practice within the next year. For now, I will continue to practice patience (I`m sure it will come in handy some day, aka, motherhood) and appreciate the amazing people I meet along the way!

Community health volunteers and couple, Doña Adriana y Don Margarito, have served their community nearly 15 years without pay. When I asked why they do it, they told me, ¨We just want to make a better life for ourselves and our neighbors.¨

Persuasion, Prostitutes and Protests = A typical visit to Teguc

After a busy month and half at work, I finally carved out a couple of days to get up to the capital. The trip was fueled by a need to renew my visa and a doctor`s appointment to check out some ¨sun-kissed¨ spots (ie moles) on my back, but I also ended up running lots of errands for work, shopping, and visiting friends which made for a great whirlwind two days! (Without a camera!!)

The majority of my trips to Teguc have been pretty superficial. I hang out at the preppy mall, watch a movie, go straight to the hotel and in the morning, back to the bus... super comfortable but unnoteworthy. Little by little, my trips have moved away from the ¨gringo zone,¨ and have become more interesting for it...

My trip got off to a ¨fuerte¨ start, when I found myself getting ride from the very team member who has caused uncalculable turmoil in the Association and has made me consider packing my bags countless times. While I was hesitant, I decided to bite the bullet and enter the lion`s den. The 3 1/2 hours we spent together in the car was ¨charged,¨ however, it allowed us to find areas of agreement and create an informal work plan for the following months. It also allowed me to practice a different, more assertive and persuasive form of Spanish... and perhaaaps gain a little respect in the process. CHEQUE!

(photo I took of the inside of the Central Park church at Christmas)

After parting ways, I needed to decompress and made my way to the Central Park church. I spent a few moments reflecting and observing the people. I realized that many of them were doing the exact same thing I was, escaping for a moment to find solace and center themselves before returning to the noisy world awaiting outside. In Central America, there is less religious diversity, and it is almost expected that you are either Catholic or Evangelical, regardless of if you practice. The churches are open all day, everyday for whoever feels the urge to enter. I found myself wondering if we have anything similar in the US where most of our faith institutions are locked up except during structured services. From church, I decided to take a moment and people watch in Central Park.... something I have yet to do in my many trips to Teguc. After finding one of the very last spots of shade, I realized two things:

1. There are very few women who sit in the park

2. The lone woman I had sat down next to was a prostitute

I sat watching people come and go, watching people watch me, and listening to clients approach my new bench neighbor. She was a woman in her early forties, poor, and missing various teeth, but her similarly outfitted clients didn`t seem to mind. She lightly bantered with them about their recent where abouts and lack of visits as one would with an old friend. After my phone card ran out unexpectedly while talking to my mom... it was time to go. Aware that she had been observing me, possibly just as intently, my neighbor and I chatted briefly and wished one another well.

My doctor`s appointment was not quite as positive as I had hoped and resulted in some unexpected lab work... USE SUNSCREEN PEOPLE!! In comparison to the states, where everything is done in house, in Honduras, you actually have to take your ¨samples¨ elsewhere to be tested and then bring the results back to the clinic. I comically wandered the streets of Teguc with my brown paper bag until a kind man walked me to the lab I was looking for. At the lab a woman offerred me a ride to a friends´ house (!) Thank you Hondurans!

My night was spent catching up with friends and playing robots with their kids :) The next day it was on to the immigration office to drop off my passport and then one more work errand on my way to the bus stop. While sitting in traffic, a swarm of students filled the street. They stood directly in front of my taxi and stopped traffic, waving banners to support the ¨Resistencia¨ and the plight of teachers who have been on strike for nearly two months. Donning hankerchiefs as masks, they yelled how they were not afriad and I had to laugh. The sun was shining, the cars were patient, and there quite possibly just as many cameramen as protesters to document the occassion. Recent protests around teachers`rights have resulted in numerous injuries and at least 3 deaths here in the capital, but this did not appear to be more than a few kids wanting to be a part of history. We slowly edged along, involuntary participants, until the next turn off. I can officially say I have partaken in Teguc protests!

http://www.latribuna.hn/2011/04/02/magisterio-protesta-en-las-calles-sin-presencia-policial/ Apparently my protest experience made the news as one of the few protests not to evoke tear gas! Double cheque!

The ride home was uneventful in my airconditioned bus back to Cholu. While I was happy to be home... I am almost looking forward to going back to Teguc on Tuesday. It is sure to be interesting!