Photos from my morning bike rides

I very well may be the only cyclist with a helmet in these parts, but it doesn`t stop people from saying wishing me well along my morning workout :)

Walking the unpaved, manure dotted streets of Orocuina, I often find myself focusing on where to put my next step and forget to look up and appreciate the amazing mountains that surround the town. All of this changed recently when I bought a bike! My ¨new¨ patch work 10 speed has proved to be well worth the 1/4 of my monthly stipend investment, allowing me to take in the beautiful scenery and get some exercise along the Orocuina Choluteca highway.

One of my favorite things about this incredible valley is its vegitation. During the ¨winter¨ the hills come alive, trees flower and grow leaves, grasses turn green, and vines pop out of seemingly nowhere to overgrow fences and mountain passages. In the ¨summer,¨ the rains stops, trees hibernate, and brush takes over where the vines wither back. While many consider this dry period a ¨lack of life,¨ I come to find that the sea of sage creates a perfect backdrop to allow small details to pop out that might otherwise be missed.

Enjoy the photos!

Sunrise

I see more cows than cars on the morning ride

¨Burro¨ in the Ocra

Watermelons

Home Sweet Home, Orocuina

International ¨Relations¨ and Miscommunications...

While I am NO Carrie Bradshaw and am the least bit interested in putting my love life, or lack there of, on display... I had to laugh tonight and share this sweet story:

I have been acquaintace ¨friends¨ with a guy in town for probably four or five months. This means we say hi, do the mandatory cheek kiss in passing and we ask one another about the other`s family. On Valentine`s Day we saw each other in passing and upon seeing me with a rose asked about my ¨boyfriend,¨ who I said was good. I explained though that the rose I had bought for Benicia and was looking for chocolates. He joked and said there is no chocolate here in Orocuina and that he`d bring some by the next day. He never stopped by, and I assumed all was well. Cheque! I, however, learned an important lesson about ¨Catracho communication¨ tonight when this ¨friend¨ showed up at the door with a rose and package of chocolates. Thank goodness he was too shy to come in and said he would stop by some day to talk. Super sweet, but super nooot good considering I just want to be friends and this friend thinks I have a boyfriend!!! (**This is funny in that I am sooo no streetwise; however, I am chalking it up to still being a fairly new single... **)

In the spirit of international amor, I thought I`d share some fun tips I seem to be picking up along the way:

1. Open communication and Respect are KEY (while this is true for any relationship, it is all the more important when exploring and navigating different cultures and belief systems.)
2. Humor is maybe even more important! Chances are, one or both of you are going to say something completely inappropriate, possibly in an even more inappropriate setting, and you need to be able to laugh at your self and each other... really, otherwise why are you together?
3. Curiosity. Having the chance to learn about other cultures and parts of the world from someone you care about rocks! So take it all in!
4. Did I mention the importance of open communication?

That being said... when it comes to politely declining relationships here in Honduras, my sound, humble piece of advise is: LIE!

While my foreign friends and I have repeatedly told guys in our towns that we are not interested in dating (and even have gone as far as to lie and make up a boyfriend), without the physical presence of a man by our sides, our fictious Don Juans don`t amount to much. While I know that many, many Honduran males have another if not multiple partners beyond their ¨main squeeze,¨ I am suprised to find out that men expect some women... ie. THIS woman to have another as well. I was informed tonight that ¨In order to be left alone, Amandita, you need to invent a husband. A novio, boyfriend, will not do, you must have a husband, with a ring.... even then a picture or recording of him professing his love would help!¨ (Says the oh so wise Benicia)

Well Benicia is probably right, it is a bit late in the game to be making up husbands... so for now I better work on my communication!! (and perhaps appreciate the chocolate :) )

Baking Cheez-its in the Mountains

There is something about the mountain air that makes everything more enjoyable! (Including baking in 85 degrees!) This weekend I went ¨home¨ with Benicia to Las Peñitas. A caravan of five, we wove our way up the mountain where we spent the afternoon relaxing in hammocks and visiting with family and friends who heard we were in town and stopped by. I was able to spend lots of time hanging out with my god son Bryan, who is one of the most content babies on the planet!

Bryan, ready to be ¨shipped out,¨ and his cousin Michelle

Besides visiting family, one of the main reasons I spent the weekend in Las Peñitas was to learn how to make rosquillas!! My quest to learn the art of rosquilla making began quickly after arriving to Honduras and falling in love with the quirky Catracho ¨cheez-its.¨ There was only one problem... no one wanted to teach me how to make them!! Even the Doña from whom I used to buy a dollar´s worth of rosquillas daily told me ¨you don´t really want to learn, it`s too much work.¨ After sharing my plight with Benicia`s family over Christmas, her sister told me, ¨come back and we will make rosquillas.¨ Cheque!

Rosquilla making began Saturday night when we cooked the dried maiz that we would use to make the dough. The corn is boiled ever so slightly to soften and then left to soak overnight. At 6am I am in the kitchen to find that Benicia has already ground the maiz by hand in the mill. At 7am Allie shows up and we begin to make the dough or masa. The primary ingredients in

rosquillas are:

• Maiz (corn)
• Cuajada (a soft cheese- delicious!)
• Butter or lard
• Eggs
• Milk
• Baking soda
• Salt

Cooking in the campo takes some creativity. After realizing we did not have a whisk to beat the eggs, Ally fashioned one using a corn cob and a branch.

Ally and I are milling the cuajada

Making rosquillas turned out to be a great arm workout as nearly everything needed to be passed through the mill, including the dough when it was finished. (I will save the ¨gun¨ photos for another time :) ) Finally, when all the ingredients are milled together, it is time to give these crackers some shape!

We filled 10 trays with donught shaped cheez-its which we then carried a quarter of a mile hike up the mountain to bake! *** Note trays become heavy when hiking uphill in 85 degree weather!

Michelle and Rosita even help, carrying firewood!

Probably my favorite part of making rosquillas was baking them! Ovens here are best described as adobe domes. To heat the oven, a fire is started inside, and when the wood burns down, the ashes are swept out with leaf brooms. The food is put inside to cook and the ends of the oven are quickly closed to trap the heat inside. Because they are fairly expensive to make, only a few people in the community have ovens and often share with their neighbors.

Heating up the oven

La dueña of this oven is a kind woman who joked around and fed us melon while we waited for the oven to be ready and the rosquillas to bake.

La dueña of the oven

Within 15 minutes of putting them in the oven, the rosquillas were done! One by one, we removed the trays with a long pole and the crackers were transferred into a plastic pila to cool. The result: my Catracho cheez-its turned out fantastic! We shared a bin with la Doña and her family and headed home to enjoy our hard work with coffee!

They`re ready!

All in all, it took us 7 hours to make approx. 250 rosquillas... meanwhile, most women who sell these national snacks make at least triple that amount by 12pm to sell on the buses and in the markets. I now have a much greater appreciation for those who make and sell rosquillas!

Ready to be eaten!

Just like cookies, a few came out stuck together ;)

Later that afternoon we headed to Ally`s house to share rosquillas and visit. She armed us each

with a plastic bag and sent us out into the backyard to collect

ocotes to bring home.Unfortunately for the U.S., ocotes don`t make it to the states. These little, acidic fruits are a great snack and are especially good when they are cooked in brown sugar! I also got the chance to try

cashew fruit for the first time. Growing in trees, the fruit looks very much like a red bell pepper with the cashew nut attached below. The fruit was... interesting! While I am not sure I would eat it again on its own, I bought a bag yesterday at the market to make refresco.

We got home just in time for sunset and I headed off to find a good spot on the edge of the mountain to watch the show. Work has been extremely trying these past few weeks, and for the first time in a long time, I have found myself doubting my work and my role here. Being able to get away, reconnect with people, and be in nature has helped me put things into perspective and return to work refreshed and motivated. It also reminds me that I am not only here to help create change in Honduran communities, but I am here to create change within myself.

Cell Phones in Central America

I have to admit that when I first got to Central America, I was nearly ecstatic at the chance to ¨disconnect¨ from technology: I couldn`t wait to leave behind constantly ringing cell phones, hourly facebook status updates, and annoying reality television for a piece of tranquilidad. One of the things that caught me most off guard in Honduras, and Central America in general, is the access to and use of cell phones. Everyone has at least one, if not two celulares- and is costantly calling and texting!!!

My $15 Cheapie cell phone

There are 3 major cell phone plans:

• Tigo¨Yours¨- Their Slogan is Con Tigo, Todo es Mejor: ¨With You, Everything is Better¨
• Claro ¨Clear¨ or ¨Of course¨- Their slogan is Claro que Si!: ¨Yes, Of Course!¨
• Digicel (Boring corporate name)- Even though it is my carrier for their competitive US call rates, I can`t tell you the slogan= bad foreign marketing... possibly the reason it has the least users (??)

While there are many similarities between cell phone usage here in Honduras and the States, using a cell phone in Honduras is a whole different ball game. Probably the biggest difference is that even though phone plans exist, no one buys them! Instead, we all buy phone cards to charge up. (I eeeeaaaassily spend $15 or 10% of my monthly budget on phone cards!!!)

Buying your minutes has its perks: you are never faced with hours of haggling on hold with your service provider over outrageous phone bills. Buying minutes; however, means you eventually run out. For this reason most people talk suuuuuuper fast on the phone and exchange very few pleasantries other than the 5 mandatory good byes at the very end of the conversation. The following is the average phone conversation:

¨Hey, it`s Santos, so...¨ (even though I was supposed to be there 30 min ago) ¨I think I am going to be late.¨ ¨Ok, see you when you get here¨... and the good byes begin...¨bueno, vaya pues¨ ¨vaya, vaya...¨ ¨ ok, ok, vaya pues¨ .... are you still there??? ¨ hasta pronto, vaya pues¨ Speaking on the phone is not for new Spanish speakers. Most conversations last 2 minutes or less!

Another interesting Catracho cell phonism is the exchanging of cellphones. People are changing and exchanging phones for a number of reasons:

1. Theft of cell phones is super common
2. Phones that don`t get stolen are really cheap and brake all the time... especially if you are in the habit of dropping them :)
3. Many people that live in areas without electricity exchange cell phones with family and neighbors before they head down to towns with electricity to charge up.

Constantly changing numbers makes it is impossible to use caller id to screen calls, making every phone call an adventure... picking up is also strategic in that if you call someone back, you have to pay! A breakdown of my adventure calls:

70% of the time it turns out to be someone I want to talk to

20% of the time it is someone I really rather not talk to... ie sketchy guys I gave my number to back in the early naive days

10% of the time I don`t know the person! (yet!)

Quite possibly one of the craziest phone stories I have resulted from an unknown number. The person on the other end greeted me and asked if I remembered him... to myself I thought ¨this conversation is off to a sketchy start...¨ but when he said he was family of my host family, my defenses eased a little. Digicels talk to eachother for free, but b/c no one has a Digicel, there is no one to talk to- that is except Selvin, who also happens to have a Digicel and got my number from his cousin. (!!!!) After what turned into a 45 minute phone conversation, I found out that Selvin is 28 and works for a non profit in Tegucigalpa while studying to get his masters in teaching. Selvin has been to the states but didn`t like it much and doesn`t plan to go back. We talked about family, religion, the differences of living in rural and urban areas and the political state of Honduras. It was a great conversation with someone that to this day I do not remember meeting. While I don`t have time for conversations like this daily- it was a good reminder that if we let our busy guards down, we might just meet... or at least talk to... some pretty interesting people.

As for me, while I still don`t miss reality TV, I have slowly reintegrated into the digital age, Catracho style!

When There is No Doctor

This weekend was supposed to be a fun, laid back, girls` weekend on the beach, but instead we found ourselves arguing with police, befriended by the armed forces, and most importantly, searching for a doctor.

We decided to spend the weekend in Amapala, a small island off the South coast of Honduras. While Amapala does not offer much in the form of tourism, it has become a convenient hub for international volunteers and locals alike looking for a break from the heat and dust of the summertime.

Arriving in the afternoon, we decided to head straight for the beach. Our group split into two moto taxis, four in one taxi and three of us behind. About half way to the beach, we saw a white pick up approaching- it was going fast and swerving in and out of the middle of the road. From the second taxi, we saw the crash. The moto taxi was tipped over, our friends inside. While the moto was quickly put upright and most people were able to get up or out on their own- we soon realized we needed a doctor.

Universal laws of accidents:

• People flock: within a minute of the accident there had to have been 60 people crowded around us, most of whom really didn`t plan to do much more than watch
• Some one tries to take off: In this case it was the (drunk) driver of the pick up that hit our friends
• There are always good samaritans: The Armed Forces came to our rescue, providing a taxi driver (yes, we got straight back into a moto taxi) who served not only as a guide, but a huge support

We decided to split up: one group looked for a doctor, while our group ¨worked with the police.¨ We quickly learned that the police were not going to be very helpful- they took the names, ages, and countries of origin of the people in the accident and then told us to ¨go to the beach.¨ When we were free to go, we when to the clinic, only to find the island`s only doctor wasn`t in. Instead, we found the doctor in front of a posh hotel, not to be interrupted from his blackberry. He said he would meet up with us later, but he said that the closest clinic with x ray was an hour and a half away by bus on the mainland. (By this point the last boat and bus had left.) After getting word that our friends were at the Armed Forces base, we headed up the mountain and got there in time to reconnect before they evacuated our friends to the mainland in a private boat. Luckily, they had driven in car and would be able to get to a private clinic. (Public clinics and hospitals are closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays!!!) The rest of us stayed and further conversed with police and Armed Forces reps about possible next steps and judicial proceedings. (Amapala`s doctor never showed up.)

• Had we been in the States or Canada, everyone would have received basic medical attention within 30 minutes of the accident, reports would have been taken, and there would be a concrete process to move forward.
• Here it took nearly four hours for our friends to get to a clinic that was open, no formal reports or testimonies were taken, and no criminal charges will be pressed unless the doctor specifies that one of the invididuals involved required more than 10 days of incapacity.

I continue to ask myself what would have happened if we were not foreigners? How long would it have taken us to get medical care? Would the Armed Forces have helped us? If the accident had been more severe, would we have been able to wait to receive medical attention?

Thank goodness that after a night in a private clinic, our friends are now home to rest with no serious, long term injuries- WHEW! It was a long weekend and a difficult lesson in what it means to truly lack access to health care. Even if I am not a huge proponent of our current health care system, I am grateful that it exisits!! (Because the doctor did not perscribe formal days of incapacity, no formal charges will be able to be pressed, and the driver will mostly likely go home today!)

Unfortunately, lack of access to medical care is not isolated to islanders. As most Hondurans live in small, rural communities, access to timely emergency care is all but none exisitant. Community members with pick ups (or horses in extreme cases) are relied upon to be make shift ambulances- traveling upwards of 6 hours to get to the nearest hospital.

**Thank you to the Armed Forces and Noe, a kind taxi driver, both of whom continue to stay in touch and assist us in any follow up from afar**

Dia del Amor y Amistad: A Deeper Meaning

Feliz Dia del Amor y Amistad! Translated into Day of Love and Friendship, the Catracho celebration of Valentine`s Day extends beyond significant others and revolves around showing your love for all that you care about. Individuals text and call friends to tell them how much they mean to them and lots of hugs and kisses are given.

Today I received the ultimate lesson in love, in the form of a shared banana. After a morning of evaluation and planning, Evelia, a health promoter walked in with a minimo- a tiny banana. The next time I looked up, she was handing us each a piece- still wrapped in its skin. We all laughed at the tiny little pieces of banana, and I smiled at her ever present willingness to share what she has, no matter how much or how little.

As for me, I will be taking the opportunity to connect with Orocuina friends today, followed by a date with Enrique Iglesias and a glass of wine :)

Eating Locally Never Tasted So Good!

One of my favorite things about Central America is its plethora of open air, fresh food markets. Here vendors sell everything from fruits and vegetables, to homemade breads and cheeses, to cuts of steak or chickens, freshly slaughtered, and nearly everything is grown or made locally. Eating locally has quickly become a trending green alternative to purchasing carbon ladden products, imported thousands of miles or processed beyond recognition in the states, but what is trendy in the states is second nature in Honduras.

There are many reasons why eating and buying locally is easier in Honduras than the US:

1. Agriculture is one of the primary forms of income generation= there is always variety and fresh products
2. The growing season for many crops is nearly year round, meaning you don`t need to go far for basic staples like onions, tomatoes, green peppers, oranges, bananas, and papaya
3. There are also rotating harvests including melons, mangoes, lychee, guayaba, cashew fruit, passion fruit and others to keep things interesting!
4. Here, there is less temptation to buy imports. Since most Hondurans cannot afford the high prices that accompany chocolate or Guiness, stores outside of the capital don`t carry much.

Honduras has its share of big box stores with prepackaged and imported goods; however, they are EXPENSIVE. Example: a jar of imported pasta sauce costs $5-10, where as a pound of tomatoes, a pound of onions, a bag of oregano, and a bunch of basil costs $3!!

Another reason to shop locally is that most supermarkets in Honduras are owned by the US (WalMart), meaning profits leave the country and don`t support the local economy beyond the jobs created.

**I am by noooo means a purist- especially when it comes to avacadoes (Mexico), olive oil, and nearly any derivative of chocolate!!! but I try to be conscious of where I invest my Lempira**

One of the best parts of eating locally is savoring the seasonal harvests. Everything seems to taste better when you only have access a few months per year!! Most recently, we entered one of my favorite seasons: Mango Season!

Don Santos getting ready to climb and harvest mangoes

A long pole with a Lacrosse-esque basket attached is used to reach for hanging mangoes.

From the moment they appear on the tree, mangoes are ready to be eaten. Green, they are acidic and taste great with chile and salt, ripe they are sweet and refreshing! Mangoes can be eaten straight off the tree, in smoothies and juices, in salsas, and most recently I found out that they are great with what else... chicken! While mangoes will never be locally in season in the States... if you feel the need for something spicy and sweet- try out the following recipe:

Orocuina`s Mango Chicken over Coconut Rice: serves 4

• 4 portions of chicken
• juice of 2 oranges
• vegetable or olive oil for cooking
• 2 red onions
• 2 mangoes
• 1 cup of rice
• 1 cup of coconut milk
• cajun spices to taste

1. Cut mango into 1/4¨ thick slices and set aside.

2. Boil the chicken in orange juice over the stove top until cooked through, remove from heat and pull apart into small pieces.

3. Saute onions in small amount of oil. When soft, add cook

ed chicken and sliced mango and cook until mango is heated through.

4. Cook rice with 1 part water and 1 part coconut milk until soft and creamy, and add cajun spices to taste.

5. Serve chicken, mangoes, and onions over coconut rice and enjoy!

Mango Chicken scored high on Catracho and US scales!

Buen Provecho!