After an amazing week with Dad and Jane, I made my way back to Lake Atitlan. The plan was to spend a good 4 or 5 days in San Marcos de la Laguna, a small town known for its spiritual vibe. With thoughts of yoga, massage, and meditation dancing in my head I set off!
The dock of San Marcos la Laguna, in Lake Atitlan
It is easy to see how many fall in love with the romantic dirt foot trails leading into tiny cafes and massage parlors along the water`s edge; however, an immediately noticeable divide between the San Marcos natives and new residents/tourists left me feeling uncomfortable and out of place. (On one hand, I am a tourist, but on the other hand, the thing I enjoy most about traveling is conversing with and learning about local culture. The last thing I want to do is spend time in or support development that does not appear to have been done with the blessing of local residents.) I will say that for those purely interested in a beautiful retreat-San Marcos delivers- it was beautiful and is an easy place to lose yourself for a day or year. There are also many foreign residents that are attempting to connect with natives. I can not say if this sentiment is reciprocated. 
An adaption of the traditional Maya sauna at La Paz, in San Marcos la Laguna (A mixture of herbs in steaming water made for an amazing cleanse!)
The shores of San Pedro la Laguna, Lake Atitlan
After taking advantage of a couple of great yoga and energy sessions, I took the advice of a fellow traveler and made my way to San Pedro la Laguna, another, larger, town along the lake. I spent the next two days in San Pedro and San Juan, studying Mayan culture and religion in a local cultural center and even had the chance to meet and work with a Maya healer. It was an amazing experience!! I learned from natives that San Pedro (ironically known by tourists as the ¨party town¨) is one of Lago Atitlan´s longest established towns and for this reason is one of the most committed to maintaining and reviving the Maya culture.
View of the lake from a new cultural center opened in San Pedro
Those who know me know that while I am not very religious, I am an incredibly spiritual person and strongly believe in the universal energy which connects each and every one of us. Learning about the Maya religion was an opportunity to view this energy in yet another light from those who have developed systems of knowing (time, astronomy, even medicine) which continue to play large roles in modern society.
From the very little I was able to glean in 2 days time, I learned that the Maya believe in a calendar of 20 days, which repeats 13 times in a year. Depending on the day and year in which you are born, you are assigned a Nawal, or spiritual guide. This Nawal also supports the growth of individuals by shedding light on the strengths and weaknesses of those born under its sign. (My guess is that modern day astrology is based off Mayan cosmology... that´s right, your daily horoscope is deeper than you thought!! ;) ) I was personally amazed by the accuracy of my Nawal`s predictions that I will be drawn to work in health, psychology, and politics and should devote myself to curing others. (Good to know that I am on the right path!) I am also prone to suffering because of my stubborness... so $%·&ing true!!
A mountain range affectionately known as the ¨Mayan Face¨as seen from San Juan
I also had a chance to talk to various individuals about what the upcoming 2012, or end of the Maya calendar, means to them. The universal response I received was that 2012 does not infact indicate the end of the world (sorry Hollywood), but rather the end of an era or way of thinking. One individual likened it to the entry of a new period- similar to the Dark Ages or the Age of Enlightenment, they said that 2012 marks the entry into a new period of growth and understanding of ourselves and how we interact with this world. Many of those whom I talked to believe that we have already begun to prepare for this change as we move away from the use of fossil fuels and seek alternative forms of energy; however, they say that the changes will transcend ¨being green,¨ to affect all systems, from the way we organize as communities to the way we rule as nations. (One healer forecasted that Capitalism and globalization will no longer reign as the driving forces.) I think the most important thing I took away from our conversations is that our generation has been and will continue to live in a period of transition and that we have the opportunity to both create and heal. None of these changes will occur overnight, but rather will occur over our life span and will be looked back upon as a turning point.... as so many other major landmarks.
The towns of San Juan and San Pedro were amazing sources of history, culture and art that I would highly recommend visiting! San Juan in particular was an adorably small town filled with artisan cooperatives which sold fabrics, bags, and scarves, canvas paintings, and natural medicine. San Pedro is also known for its fantastic chocolates- and while my efforts to find and tour the factory were futile, my backpack was filled for the trip back!!
All in all, my trip back to the lake was absolutely nothing like what I thought it would be and yet, at the same time, so much more! Whether you are looking for cultural connections, natural healing, art work, or just some good chocolate- Lago Atitlan is sure to hold something for every traveler!
For a great starting point to Maya culture:
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